seneth marsden photography

Wednesday, 3 December 2014

Thursday, 20 November 2014

history

Infrared photography or "IR" photography is a type of photos which use "IR" light. As humans, we can't see looking through our normal eyes because, "IR" light isn't in our visible colour spectrum. We can only see it through the lens of a camera. Infrared photography started around the beginning of the 20th century. It was mostly used for movies and sometimes the odd photo. It wasn't until the time of world war II, when "IR" photography became very useful. This is because it shows many different colours between water spots, buildings, plants and people. Now, some groups that use "IR" photography are Firefighters, Contractors, Environmental protection agencies, and the Military. They use it because "IR" photography uses different colours for different things like chemicals, people, vegetation, and heat. therefore they can see what they normally wouldn't be able to see. Also, In the field of medicine, IR photography is very useful as infrared radiation can penetrate the skin. This makes problems such as; varicose veins or venous blood easy to spot. Infrared is also used in dental photography. This is because its shows enamel darker than dentin, which is the material that makes up the bulk of a tooth.

How?

One can achieve infrared photography through many different ways. Film is usually sensitive to visible light too, so using an infrared-passing filter is used. doing this lets infrared light pass through to the camera. However it blocks all or most of the visible light spectrum. Some ways are you can do this are:-buying a circular IR filter that attaches to the front of your camera-having a DLSR camera converted to IR photography use only, buying a camera special for IR photography-using photoshop to create the effect. Every camera uses other ways of capturing IR photos. This means that some are better than others.

ref

My images

infrared tutorial-http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-effects/infrared-photo/

I used the website as a tutorial to achieve an infrared look to the images. First I opened the pictures and adjusted the brightness/contrast, vibrancy and exposure. I wanted the images to start as bright, lively images, then for them to change as I edited them. The tutorial didn’t do this in the beginning or it just didn’t show it. I think it adds the brightness of colours to the end result. Then I saved the picture and opened it again to add the infrared effects. With it open I duplicated the background layer and renamed it to “infrared”. I changed the image to black and white and changed the preset to infrared, then adjusted some of the colours to add some dark and light sections. I converted the image to a smart object and added a filter gallery. This added a diffuse glow and graininess to the pictures. For every image I changed the opacity to 75% on the filter gallery. But for every image I changed the amount of opacity on the black and white layer (ranges from around 60%-90%). Each of my pictures shows some form of landscape in our environment, from down town Gangnam in Seoul, to Sanbanks in Newfoundland and also to our school campus. It is just a way to show how different, yet similar landscapes and nature can be around the world. I chose this theme because it is interesting to me each final image is very different from the next, even though, they were all essentially edited the same.

gangnam, seoul, south korea

sandbanks, burgeo, newfoundland

Wednesday, 12 November 2014

drawing/picture

splash

Wednesday, 29 October 2014

Exposure triangle

Aperture

f5.6

f11

f16

f22

f32

f36

As the aperture decreases and the number "f" increases, the background becomes more in focus.

shutter speed

1/2

1/10

1/50

1/160

As the number gets smaller ( 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10 etc.), the image becomes darker and the camera takes the picture faster making the picture more still and less blurry.

Friday, 10 October 2014

Digital Project

Erik Johansson

Erik Johansson is a photographer from Sweden. Currently he lives in Berlin, Germany. There he is busy working on both commercial and personal projects. He has a very different view on photography. It is that, photography is just a way of collecting different material, and to realize the ideas in his mind with a very different problem solving approach. His purpose is to make an image that could potentially contain hundreds of photographs, appear to be a photography that could have been taken with a camera. For him, every project is a new challenge. His main goal is to make the final image to appear as realistic as possible.

Images

This photo has the slight feeling of darkness. The man in the image is trying to cover the darkness with a beautiful view of a valley with trees and flowers. A completely other concept to what is behind the image. i like how it has the lightness in contrast with the dark.

This final image is also very dark. From what i get out of this image is that the light on the sealing is conducting the fire. It is burning through the floor as long as anything that is thrown under the light (fire) that being produced. i chose this because i like how most of the import parts of the image are focused in the middle of the image.

The boy in the image is letting what was originally in the picture, out of the frame. I really enjoy just looking at this image. The open ocean in one corner, the boy standing knee deep in the ocean spilling the picture, then the ships floating from out of the picture out on to the open ocean.

My image

Newfoundland

#3) advanced collage tricks

For this image I had a picture of a lake, a sunset and from there i totally changed the image. First i edited each different layer. I darkened the sunset picture and added a layer of stars and faded it out so you could still see the sunset. Then i used the burn brush to blend the sky into the trees on the lake layer so it wasn't such a dramatic change, it progressively changes. From there i added the different animals and the moon by using the Magnetic lasso tool and cutting the animals from their original images and adding them in layers to the image, added reflections and shadows to make it look more realistic. Then as a whole image in the end i edited it together, adding brightness and contrast, vibrance and changing the curves.

Thursday, 2 October 2014

Tilt-shift Photography

History

Movements have been available on view cameras since the early days of photography; they have been available on smaller-format cameras since the early 1960s, usually by means of special lenses or adapters. Nikon introduced a lens providing shift movements for their 35 mm SLRcameras in 1962,and Canon introduced a lens that provided both tilt and shift movements in 1973; many other manufacturers soon followed. Canon currently offers four lenses that provide both movements, Nikon offers three. Such lenses are frequently used in architectural photography to control perspective, and in landscape photography to get an entire scene sharp.
Camera lens can provide sharp focus on only a single plane. Without tilt, the image plane, the lens plane, and the plane of focus are parallel, and are perpendicular to the lens axis; objects in sharp focus are all at the same distance from the camera. When the lens plane is tilted relative to the image plane, the plane of focus (PoF) is at an angle to the image plane, and objects at different distances from the camera can all be sharply focused if they lie in the same plane. With the lens tilted, the image plane, lens plane, and PoF intersect at a common line, this behavior has become known as the Scheimpflug principle. When focus is adjusted with a tilted lens, the PoF rotates about an axis at the intersection of the lens's front focal plane and a plane through the center of the lens parallel to the image.

ref-http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilt%E2%80%93shift_photography

Images

Tutorial

1)

Tilt-shift photography tends to work best for photos that have a wide view and are taken from higher ground. The photo doesn't necessarily have to be an aerial shot, but it should be something that is composed of many small parts that make up a whole.
*optional step, you can pre-edit your photo in Photoshop Camera Raw to prep it before adding additional effects. Open up the Open menu in Photoshop, select your file and then select Camera Raw in the Format drop-down menu.*
Open up your photo in Photoshop and switch to Quick Mask mode. You can do this by either hitting the Q key on your keyboard or clicking on the Quick Mask mode button at the bottom of your tool box menu. *This will basically "mask" your selected areas from whatever effects you apply next.*
Select the Gradient tool, which looks like a rectangle with a gradient across it. You can also just hit G on your keyboard.
Using the Gradient tool, draw a vertical, perpendicular line. This is a tricky step. You want to start the line in an area that you want to be in focus, and then end the line in an area that you want to be out of focus.
In your options bar, make sure you have the fourth choice selected, which is the Reflected Gradient. This will make a gradient that has a mirror-effect
After you draw your line, there should be a red bar over the area that will be in focus. It usually takes a few tries to get this exactly the way you want it, so play around with the gradient until you're satisfied.
Click on the Quick Mask mode button again to return to Standard Mode, or simply hit the Q button on your keyboard again. Now, you should see a series of marching ants selecting the area that you don't want to be in focus.
Once you're satisfied with your selection, go to Filter > Blur > Lens Blur to put a lens blur effect on the area you've selected.
A new window will open, and here you can preview your effect before applying it. You can adjust how blurry you want the background to be, but just be careful to not make it look too fake by making a sudden jump from in-focus to out of focus.Once you're satisfied with the effect, click OK to accept and exit the lens blur window.
Get rid of the marching ants by deselecting your selected parts under Select > Deselect.
Now it's time to make the photo look more model-like by adjusting the color and contrast of the photo. To adjust saturation, go to Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation.Slowly increase the saturation of the photo until it looks more toy-like. Again, the idea is to lay on the effect in an amount that tricks the eye, but not too much that it looks fake and unbelievable. Click OK when you're satisfied with the effect.
Adjust the contrast of the photo by accessing the Curves panel. Go to Image > Adjustments > Curves.Making a slight S-curve will increase the contrast of your photo to make it look even more toy-like. Play around with curves until you have a desired effect, then click OK to accept the effect and exit the pane

ref-http://mashable.com/2013/09/24/photoshop-tilt-shift/

2)

When choosing a photograph for the tilt-shift effect, bear in mind that you want to give the impression of a miniature model. Miniature models are usually viewed from above so try and choose a photo with an elevated viewpoint. Buildings, roads, traffic and railways are excellent choices but make sure there is a reasonable wide angle of view.
Open the image in Photoshop and enter Quick Mask Mode by pressing Q on the keyboard, or select the Quick Mask icon
Choose the Gradient Tool by pressing G on the keyboard, or select the Gradient Tool icon. Be sure to choose the Reflected Gradient option (the fourth icon along before the Mode drop-down).
Draw a vertical line; the start point will be the centre of the in-focus area, and the end will be where the transition from in-focus to out-of-focus is completed. This step, and the subsequent two steps, will need a fair degree of trial and error. If you look closely at the image below, you will see the line has been drawn from the back door of the silver car up to just under the word Hollywood beneath the street lamp.Once you release the mouse button the area of focus will appear as a red band across the image
Before progressing, review the position of the red mask. The middle of the mask is where the in-focus area will be, gradually losing focus towards the edges. Note the out-of-focus effect is yet to be applied.
Press Q on the keyboard to exit Quick Mask Mode and return to Standard Mode, or press the icon on the Tool Palette as shown below. The area to apply the focus effect to will be surrounded by the “marching ants” selection lines
Choose Filter > Blur > Lens Blur:
Hopefully, you will now see a pleasing focus effect. The Photoshop default settings for Lens Blur seem to work well, but experiment with them to improve the effect. If you are unhappy with the position of the focus area, go back to Step 4 and try drawing a line in a different place or with a different centre of focus.
Assuming you were happy with the image preview in Step 8, click OK to accept the settings
Press CTRL-D on the keyboard to remove the “marching ants” selection bounday:
You may want to boost the colour saturation, to improve the effect. Remember that model scenery is often brightly painted so enhancing the saturation helps trick the eye. Press CTRL-U on the keyboard or select Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation:
It may help to increase the contrast of the image slightly using the Curves adjustment. Press CTRL-M on the keyboard or select Image > Adjustments > Curves:
In this example we use a very small S-shaped curve to increase contrast. Take care not to over-do this step; in fact, it may not be necessary at all